If you don't want to deal with a flooded rig or a cracked pump in the spring, you really need to learn how to winterize rv washing machine units before the first deep freeze hits. It's one of those chores that's incredibly easy to push off until tomorrow, but trust me, tomorrow might be too late if a cold front moves in overnight. Replacing a Splendide or a Whirlpool unit because a plastic valve cracked isn't just expensive; it's a massive headache to haul those things out of a tight RV closet.
Most folks focus on their pipes and the water heater, but the washing machine often gets overlooked. It holds water in places you can't see—inside the internal pump, the intake valves, and the pressure switch lines. If that water turns to ice, it expands, and something has to give. Usually, it's the most expensive component in the machine.
Getting the Right Supplies Together
Before you get started, you'll want to gather a few things so you aren't running back and forth to the shed. You're going to need a couple of gallons of that classic pink RV antifreeze—the non-toxic stuff, not the green automotive kind. Seriously, never use automotive antifreeze in your RV plumbing. It's toxic and will ruin your system for good.
You'll also probably want a bucket, some towels (because there's always a little splash-back), and potentially a short piece of garden hose if your setup is a bit cramped. If you're planning on blowing out the lines with air, make sure you have your air compressor set to a low PSI—usually around 30 to 40—so you don't blow a seal inside the machine.
The Most Popular Method: Using RV Antifreeze
Most RVers prefer the antifreeze method because it's thorough. It ensures that every nook and cranny of the machine is protected. Here's the "down and dirty" on how to get it done.
First, make sure your RV's main water system is already winterized or that you have your antifreeze intake ready. Turn off the water heater and bypass it. You don't want to fill a six-gallon tank with pink stuff if you don't have to.
Once your main lines are primed with antifreeze, turn the washing machine on. Set it to a "Warm/Warm" fill setting. This is a big one that people miss. By choosing "Warm," you're opening both the hot and cold intake valves. Let the machine start filling until you see that pink liquid starting to enter the drum. Once you see the color change from clear to pink, you know the intake lines and valves are protected.
After that, advance the timer or change the cycle to "Spin" or "Drain." This kicks the internal pump into gear and pushes the antifreeze through the drain hose and into the P-trap. You'll want to see pink coming out of the end of the drain hose or entering your gray tank. Once you see that, the pump is safe.
Using Compressed Air to Blow Out the Lines
If you live in a place where it doesn't stay below zero for months on end, or if you just hate the smell of antifreeze, you might opt to blow out the lines. Personally, I find this a bit riskier for a washing machine because it's hard to be 100% sure you got every drop out of the pump, but it's a valid way to winterize rv washing machine setups if done carefully.
Connect your compressor to the city water inlet and set the pressure low. You'll follow a similar process to the antifreeze method. Open the washing machine and set it to fill on "Warm." You should hear the air hissing through the valves. Wait until you don't hear any more "spitting" or "gurgling" sounds.
The tricky part here is the pump. Even if the lines are dry, the pump housing usually holds a little puddle of water. I always recommend pouring at least a half-gallon of RV antifreeze directly into the drum of the washer and then running a quick "Drain" cycle. This ensures the pump is sitting in antifreeze even if the rest of the machine is dry.
Don't Forget the Filter and the P-Trap
A lot of RV washing machines, especially the stackable units, have a small lint or debris filter at the bottom front. It's a good idea to unscrew this and let any trapped water drain out into a shallow pan. This is also a great time to clean out any stray coins or buttons that have been rattling around in there all season.
Also, think about where that water goes. Every RV washer drains into a P-trap, which is a U-shaped pipe designed to keep sewer smells out of your living space. If you've blown out the lines with air but didn't put antifreeze down the drain, that P-trap is full of plain water. It will freeze and crack the pipe under your floor. Always pour a little extra pink stuff down the washer drain pipe just to be safe.
Dealing with Different Machine Types
If you have a combo unit—the ones that wash and dry in the same drum—the process is pretty much the same. However, some of those units have a "Dry" cycle that uses a small amount of water for condensation cooling. Make sure you've run the "Warm" wash long enough to get antifreeze through all the intake solenoids.
If you have separate stackable units, you only really need to worry about the washer. The dryer doesn't use water (unless you have one of those fancy steam-refresh models). If your dryer has a steam feature, make sure you treat its water intake line exactly like the washer's hot or cold line.
Why You Shouldn't Skip This Step
I've seen plenty of people say, "Oh, I keep a space heater in the rig, it'll be fine." That works right up until the power goes out during a blizzard or the heater tips over. The cost of a few gallons of antifreeze is maybe ten bucks. The cost of a new RV washer can be north of $1,000, and that's not even counting the labor if you aren't a DIY person.
Plus, a cracked valve might not show itself immediately. You might de-winterize in the spring, start a load of towels, and go outside to grill, only to come back to a flooded bedroom because a hairline crack in the intake valve finally gave way under pressure. It's just not worth the risk.
Quick Checklist for a Stress-Free Winter
To make sure you've covered all your bases when you winterize rv washing machine components, keep this mental checklist:
- Bypass the water heater so you aren't wasting antifreeze.
- Use the "Warm" setting to clear both intake valves.
- Watch for the pink stuff in the drum and in the drain line.
- Clean the pump filter to remove standing water and debris.
- Add antifreeze to the P-trap via the drain standpipe.
- Unplug the unit once you're done for the season.
Wrapping Things Up
Winterizing isn't exactly the most fun way to spend an afternoon, but it's the price we pay for the freedom of the road. Taking those extra twenty minutes to make sure your washing machine is tucked in for the winter will save you a world of hurt come April.
When the birds start chirping and you're ready to head back out, all you'll have to do is run a couple of empty cycles with some detergent or a dedicated washer cleaner to rinse out the antifreeze. It'll be fresh, clean, and—most importantly—not broken. Stay warm out there, and happy trails!